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Rolex Oyster Perpetual - Collection review

The latest generation of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection was presented to us as part of Rolex new model release in 2022. Following a significant change in direction for the collection with a new range of diverse colours and sizes introduced in 2020, this years release see's a slight change in direction for this base level model. Designed as a modern, stylish range of Rolex entry level options at the least expensive end of the cost spectrum, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection has something for everyone, ranging from subtle to all out adventurous in the choice of colours and dainty to significant with it's range of sizes expanding from 28 to 41mm. Our complete Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection review below gives you the most comprehensive low down and includes every single watch in the collection, as well as those discontinued. Get information on prices & availability and find out which watch from the Oyster Perpetual collection would be the right choice for you.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Fundamentals

Although there's significant variety of choice within the collection, there are a common set of fundamental principles which bring these watches together as a complete collection. To start, every Oyster Perpetual is produced only in an Oystersteel case, with no precious metal or gem set options. The movement is protected using the Rolex twinlock screw down crown ensuring a waterproof rating of 100 meters. There are a core set of dial colours, with base colours silver, bright blue, and black being available on every size variation. Each dial on each watch is framed by a steel domed bezel, and each case is mounted on an Oyster flat link bracelet with no other bracelet option available. Finally the bracelet is fastened using a folding Oyster clasp, which benefits from the innovative Easylink extension system allowing 5mm adjustment to the bracelet without the need for any tooling. This simplicity within the collection confirms it's place as the ultimate entry level Rolex option.

With those being the similarities, we'll now take a look at the differences each product set within the collection has to offer.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 124300

The 41mm presents itself as the largest model from the collection. Generally, any watch produced in a 41mm case is seen as a gents option, but with modern watch styling trends it's often taken as a ladies option as well. Primarily being a gents option, the colour choices lean towards those seen as more traditionally suitable for a mans watch. Besides the standard black, blue, silver options, Rolex have added a 'Rolex Green' dial completing the set with 4 variations available at 41mm. The larger style dial also allows for double baton hour markers in the 3 / 6 / 9 positions. The watch itself is powered by the recently released Rolex calibre 3230 movement which provides a 'time only' function and benefits from an improved power reserve over its predecessor of up to 70 hours.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual - Collection review Global Watch Shop

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 126000

At 36mm the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 is formed in whats traditional known as a gents size, although these days, this size is seen firmly as a unisex watch, worn by by gents & ladies alike. Rolex seem to have acknowledged this with the dial colour options that they've made available with the 126000 model. Alongside the four 'gents' colour options as seen in the 41mm model Rolex have also produced a Candy pink and a turquoise blue dial, and as such have seemingly acknowledged this as a ladies option, with two ladies dial colours available at 36mm. The turquoise blue is also unofficially known as the 'Tiffany' dial due to it's similarity in colour to the famous 'Robin's egg blue' used by the well known style icon. This tacit alignment with the Tiffany brand has seen the turquoise blue dial being by far the most sought after from all the Rolex Oyster Perpetual colour options. The 36mm is the smallest of the dial options to be seen with the double baton 3 / 6 / 9 hour makers and is also powered by the Rolex calibre 3230 movement used by the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual - Collection review Global Watch Shop

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34 124200

Breaching the gap between gents and ladies sizes sits the 34mm version of the Oyster Perpetual. A size that doesn't generally spring to mind when thinking of Rolex see's this model as the forgotten member of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection, with little demand flowing through for this variant. Given the relative unpopularity compared to the rest of the collection, could this be a target for future discontinuation from the Rolex catalogue? With it's smaller case and dial the 34mm Oyster Perpetual display only bears a single baton in the 3 / 6 / 9 hour marker positions as do all Oyster Perpetual models sized at 34mm or below. Given the smaller case, the 34mm is unable to house the calibre 3230 movement, but instead utilises the smaller calibre 2232, with a power reserve reduced to 55 hours. A good option to consider for a gent with a smaller wrist or as a subtly larger option for a ladies watch, available in the three base colours of silver, bright blue or black, with the added option of a candy pink dial.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual - Collection review Global Watch Shop

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 277200

Mirroring the Rolex Lady Datejust collection, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 is the largest of two dedicated ladies sizes. Known as the ladies midsize, the 31mm Oyster Perpetual has the largest variety of dial colours available from within the entire Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection, incorporating not only the standard dial colours, but also a pink, green and a turquoise 'Tiffany' blue option. The 31mm also makes use of the compact calibre 2232 movement as the engine of the watch.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual - Collection review Global Watch Shop

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 28 276200

Finally we have the baby of the family, the 28mm. This is the smaller of the two ladies sizes again mirroring the set up in the Rolex Lady Datejust collection. Not as popular as the 31mm version, but a perfect fit for the lady who prefers a more subtle wrist adornment. The three standard Black, blue and silver models are all available in 28mm as well as pink, as you would expect from the most subtle of ladies options. Again, this watch is driven by the smaller calibre 2232 movement with 55 hour power reserve.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual - Collection review Global Watch Shop

2022 Discontinuations

Often with the new release schedule, there is as much interest in which watches are removed from the Rolex catalouge as there is in the new models. The theory behind this is that discontinuations often directly result in an immediate appreciation in price. Whilst this can be the case, it doesn't hold true in all instances. The most important factors that lead to price appreciation upon discontinuation are length of time in production & number produced per year (supply), as well as the popularity of the watch both through production years, and post production (demand). The Oyster Perpetual collection was only relatively recently updated in 2020 with this new array of colour options, so any discontinued have only been in production for a short period of time, there. The 2022 round of new Rolex releases saw a cull of a number of options from the original 2020 release. Red coral and Yellow dials are no longer part of the Oyster Perpetual collection, having previously being available as a 41, 36, and a 31mm option. Other discontinuations include the candy pink Oyster Perpetual 31, removing the need to choose between 2 similar pink dials at 31mm. So any watch discontinued in this round will only have a limited supply given the extremely short production run.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual - Collection review Global Watch Shop

Looking at the demand side of the equation, the most significant discontinuation in 2022 is surely the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 'Tiffany' dial. The turquoise option has seeming been removed from the largest of the Oyster Perpetuals to give the 41mm range a more masculine feel. As a watch that already demanded significant premiums, many times over the original retail price, discontinuation is sure to see a step increase in the value of this watch, especially considering its popularity and unusually short production run.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual - Collection review Global Watch Shop

GWS Opinion

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual range has proved a hugely popular rework of a somewhat flagging collection. The introduction of the new style & colour schemes in 2020 initially met a mixed reaction, and was somewhat unpopular with Rolex purists. However, the collection has firmly found it's place in the market and whilst the base colour schemes are popular throughout the size ranges, the more adventurous dials have gone on to be incredibly sought after, defying their seemed purpose as an 'entry level' collection, with secondary market demand pushing prices alongside, and in some cases beyond the traditionally more coveted steel sports watch counterparts. In the short term prices will fluctuate, but long term watch portfolio builders and collectors alike will surely be tucking away their red coral, yellow, and turquoise 'Tiffany' 41mm models as the most in demand pieces, with the smallest band of supply given the relatively tiny amount produced over the unusually short Rolex production run of these models.

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